- Sailing Croatia tips
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by Ultra Sailing Team
When chartering a sailboat or catamaran in Central Dalmatia, visiting the stunning island of Hvar is a must. Our charter bases in Central Dalmatia are located in the city of Split (ACI Marina Split) and the city of Trogir (Marina Baotic), making it about a 3.5-hour sail (20 NM) to Hvar when starting from Split or Trogir.
With a length of 68 km, Hvar is the longest island on the Croatian Adriatic coast. When you include its associated coves, harbors, and small rocky islets, the coastline stretches an impressive 140 nautical miles. The Hvar aquatorium includes the island of Scedro, Paklinski Otoci (an island group off the city of Hvar), and the only island on the northern side of Hvar, Zecevo.
Inhabited since prehistoric times, the island of Hvar offers numerous archaeological and cultural attractions. No matter which coastal side of Hvar you sail along, you’ll encounter picturesque bays with crystal-clear waters, beaches, and untouched nature. The island boasts around 27 continuously inhabited settlements. We’ll mention some of the most well-known bays and harbors around the island of Hvar where you can moor when sailing with a sailboat or catamaran.
Hvar’s story begins in the 4th century BC when the Greeks founded Pharos (present-day Stari Grad) and Dimos (Hvar town). Traces have been left by the Romans, Byzantines, medieval Croatian kings and Venetians. Another famous part of Hvar is its „reliable“ Wine, you’re unlikely to have a bad wine on Hvar, thanks to this island’s fertile terrain. The domestic, house wine at any eatery is guaranteed to be good.
Western side of Hvar – Stari Grad
Our sailing journey commences on the western shores of the island, where the coastline reaches its broadest expanse. To be more precise, in the northwest of Hvar Island lies the settlement of Pharos, founded by Ionic Greeks in 384 BC, now known as Stari Grad, translated it means “Old Town.” Despite being the oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, Stari Grad exudes a contemporary and urban ambiance.
The city’s significant history is still clearly evident in its ancient stone houses and Renaissance structures. The 17th-century parish Church of St. Stephen (Sv. Stjepan) is the principal landmark. At the western end of the old quarter is the Tvrdalj, the fortified residence of Renaissance poet Petar Hektorovic. Nearby is the Stari Grad Museum, housed in the Renaissance Biankini Palace, which contains a stunning collection of Gree amphorae. On the edge of the old quarter is the Dominican Monastery, which contain a library rich in medieval incunabula and a collection of paintings.
Berthing in Stari Grad
In contrast to the bustling energy of Hvar town’s Riva, Stari Grad offers a lively yet not overly raucous urban experience. Strolling along the Riva is a joy, with the opportunity to visit charming pubs and restaurants. The port of Stari Grad offers around 100 berths, complete with electricity and water connections. Additionally, mooring buoys are available as berths, anchored just off the Riva.
Stari Grad Berths: 00385 21 765 432 or 00385 91 176 5290
Bays Tiha and Zavala
Upon entering Starogradski Zaljev, to the port side, you’ll find the expansive Tiha bay, which is divided into 7 smaller coves: Stupisce, Vucja, Srednja Lokva, Veli Dolac, Paklena, Hobonj and Uza. These 7 coves are arranged from north to east, each with a depth of around 10 meters. Depending on the prevailing winds, you’ll certainly find the perfect cove for your needs. When the „Maestral“ (NW) or West winds are blowing, the west side of the bay is best to moor, and during the bura, the eastern part. The two arms in the middle, Srednja Lokva and Veli Dolac are safe in all wind conditions. All 7 coves offer mooring buoys and also you can find few restaurants here.
Tiha Bay Contact: info@nascor.hr Tel.: 00385 21 501 799 or 00385 91 444 4010
A mile towards Stari Grad is located the Zavala bay, it offers excellen protection from all wind directions and here are also around 10 mooring buoys and a restaurant. Not to mix up with a village Zavala on Hvar’s southern coast, which is also a beautiful place and offers a pebbly beach running along Zavala’s shoreline, but not so good for anchor, since there is no protection.
Zavala Bay Contact: 00385 91 509 9496
Harbors of Vrboska and Jelsa
The neighboring towns of Stari Grad are Vrboska and Jelsa which are situated on the northern side of Hvar Island. When setting sail from Stari Grad towards Vrboska or Jelsa, you can make a stopover in the beautiful Zukova Bay.
Zukova bay is almost a kilometre long, on the most indented stretch of the Hvar coastline. It lies in the narrow section of the Hvar Channel and provides excellent shelter and is suitable for overnight anchoring. You can anchor in the sandy bed, at depths between 5 and 20 metres. The best spot is in front of one of the southern or western arms. During the day there are visiting speedboats mostly from Bol, which is three miles away, but at night there is little or no activity.
Sailing from the north, you’ll navigate around the tip of Glavica and enter the bay of Vrboska on a westward course. As you reach the far end of the bay, it narrows to the point where it resembles a canal, especially as one side is crossed by bridges that evoke a Venetian ambiance for many. Just before the first bridge, in the middle of the harbor, you’ll find a small island.
For comfortable mooring, the best option is ACI Marina Vrboska, which is conveniently located at the harbor entrance and offers excellent protection. Alternatively, there are around 30 berths available along the promenade (Riva) of Vrboska.
Marina Vrboska Contact: m.vrboska@aci-club.hr Tel: 00385 21 774 018
Riva Vrboska Contact: Tel: 00385 98 190 32 56
Vrboska exudes a tranquil and relaxed atmosphere, huddled around a succession of stone bridges spanning a narrow canal connected to the open sea. Central to the village’s allure stands the 16th-century Church of St. Mary. For those seeking a leisurely promenade, the coastal path from Vrboska to Jelsa provide san idyllic route to explore. Of course, don’t miss out to try the local wine and sweet figs for dessert.
Jelsa
Just about 1.5 nautical miles southeast of Vrboska lies the charming old harbor town of Jelsa. It’s quite a rarity in the Adriatic for two harbors to be situated so close to each other, as is the case with Jelsa and Vrboska. Jelsa originally served as the harbor for the village of Pitve, which lies 2.5 km inland and is one of the oldest permanent settlements on the island. Jelsa provides excellent shelter from all winds except the Bura (northeast), which it is entirely exposed to.
If you decide to stay in the harbor of Jelsa despite the Bura, it’s best to dock along the new Riva. This area extends between the main quay on the south bank and the harbor mole known as Kanun, offering around 35 berths.
Jelsa is a traditional Dalmatian stone-built village and popular base for family holidays, with several beaches on the outer fringes of town. Jelsa was a prosperous port, exporting the wines produced in the villages. A tip for wine enthusiasts: in August, Jelsa hosts the famous Wine Festival, so if you happen to be in the vicinity during that time, it’s an event you shouldn’t miss.
From Jelsa to Sucuraj
Sailing along the north coast of Hvar Island from Jelsa, you’ll encounter several anchor bays suitable for a refreshing swim stop, such as Vela Stiniva, Pokrivenik, Zarace, and Bristova. Continuing on, you’ll reach the low rocky eastern tip of the island (Rt Sucuraj), beyond which lies the harbor town of Sucuraj, sharing proximity with the mainland. The local ferry port connects Hvar Island to the nearby Drvenik, a mere 3 nautical miles away.
Pokrivenik is the largest bay on the stretch on the northern shore of Hvar between Jelsa and Sucuraj, and is the only one suitable for anchoring. However, you should avoid it when NE (bura) is blowing. This is a very beautiful bay, more than a kilometre long, shaped like a funnel, tapering inland.
Sucuraj Harbor is fully exposed to the east wind, known as Levante, but it provides good protection from south and west winds thanks to its lengthy breakwater.
Along the south coast to Hvar
From Sucuraj, we sail westward along the southern coast of the island towards the town of Hvar itself. In terms of the number of coves that line up during the first 12 nautical miles of sailing, the south side of Hvar Island closely resembles the north side, except there are no shelter for the Jugo wind (southeast) here. Conversely, all the coves on the south side of the island provide good protection from the NE-Bura and most of them from the Maestral (northwest) winds as well.
From Sucuraj to Hvar, you’ll encounter many small anchor bays such as Kozja, Smarska, Torac, Medvidina, Zavala in front of the island of Scedro, Ivan Dolac, Sv. Nedjelja, Dubovica, Zarace, and Hvarska Milna.
Some of these bays are suitable for anchoring only, while others like Zarace, Hvarska Milna, and Sv. Nedjelja offer mooring buoys and have breakwaters that provide excellent protection from all wind directions. By the way, in all three of these bays, you’ll find restaurants serving excellent cuisine, including wines from their own vineyards.
Sv. Nedjelja Bay Contact: 00385 21 745 703
Town of Hvar
For those exploring Central Dalmatia by boat, a visit to the town of Hvar is undoubtedly on the agenda. Of course, we recommend exploring the town of the same name. Just as with Dubrovnik or Korcula, you’ll immediately sense a mysterious aura of history and the past enveloping the town of Hvar.
Thanks to its wonderfully preserved Renaissance centre, Hvar Town is one of the most visited on the Dalmatian coast, and Hvar island’s main settlement.
During the peak season in July and August, fully experiencing the beauty of Hvar town can be quite challenging. It’s bustling with tourists and all sorts and sizes of boats, including regular catamarans, cruise ships, and mega-yachts. Hvar town is also renowned as a party hotspot, so expect lively evenings and the sea to be stirred by the constant comings and goings of taxi boats and dinghies.
Much frequented by luxury yachts and boats in summer, Hvar’s harborside is one of the most glamorous in the Adriatic. Therefore, it’s often best to avoid the town harbor (Riva) of Hvar and instead secure a berth in the nearby Marina Palmizana, Vinogradisce Bay (Pakleni Islands), or as previously mentioned, Hvarska Milna, which is just 2 nautical miles from Hvar town and offers a peaceful spot for overnight stays and a leisurely stroll into Hvar town.
In Hvar town, almost every desire can be fulfilled. You’ll find everything you’re looking for, from boutiques and cafes to restaurants and top-notch hotels. If you wish, you can rent a car or scooter to explore the island’s interior.
A recommended to visit is the Renaissance Cathedral of St. Stephen, dominating Hvar’s harbourside main square. The interior houses works of art, and the cathedral treasury has reliquaries and silverware.
On the south side of the square, the Arsenal was built in the late 16th century as a dry dock for Venetian war galleys. A theatre built on the first floor in 1612 is one of the oldest in Europe.
North of the main square is the ancient quarter of Groda, consisting of stone houses and narrow streets. Here you’ll find the Hektorovic Palace and a Benedictine Convent founded in 1664. Paths ascend from the Groda district to the 16th century fortress on the hill above town, known locally as Španjola. Great views of the surrounding coasts are offered by the fortress’s ramparts.
Pakleni Islands in front of Hvar
Situated just off the coast from Hvar Island is the bay-rich archipelago known as Pakleni Otoci. It comprises a multitude of small and tiny islets and one larger island named Sveti Klement. On its northern side, at the end of a well-protected, deeply indented bay, you’ll find ACI Marina Palmizana.
The marina boasts a natural setting, surrounded exclusively by pine forests that extend nearly to the water’s edge. This marina offers protection in all weather conditions. Directly opposite to Palmizana lies the Vinogradisce Bay. In summer, Vinogradisce is one of the liveliest bays in the Adriatic. The bay features approximately 40 mooring buoys and several restaurants and beach bars. From here, you can take a water taxi to the town of Hvar.
The archipelago comprises a total of 21 islets and reefs. On the largest island, Sv. Klement, numerous bays line the southern side, including Tarsce, Luka Soline, Pakleni Bok, Stari Stani, and Okorija, while on the north side, you’ll find Duboka, Carnjeni Bok, and Vlaka. The second-largest island in the archipelago is Marinkovac, with a barren and rocky southern side and a forested western side. The largest bay on Marinkovac is Stipanska, facing south, but it provides good shelter from the Bora and west winds and Ždrilca to the north.
The island closest to the town harbor of Hvar is Jerolim, where you’ll also find a naturist beach on the far side of the island.
Select one of the beautiful coves on the Pakleni Islands and enjoy a dreamy day at anchor.
Vinogradisce Contact: 00385 91 617 5510 or 00385 91 1718 242
Marina Palmizana: 00385 (0) 98 398 853
